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Photography equipment is pretty expensive an there is already so much that you have to buy, so when possible I try to be creative and design and make tools myself. I am surprised that over the years I have done this a few times and then later found out that what I made was actually already a product.
We bought a Hitachi 57" Television in 2004 and we loved it. Then early last year it started to act up and quickly deteriorated and after investing $300 in repairs that didn't work, went out and bought two Sony Bravias for less money than we paid for the one Rear Projection. The old rear projection was taken to the garage and lasted through a garage sale for the price of Free if you would haul it away!
Before I threw it away I was entertaining the Idea of taking it apart because it had wheels and I thought that I could use it in an artistic way - such as a stand for one of the new TV’s by gutting it and putting the new tv in the screen area of the old TV. I thought maybe even some sort of planter.
I intended to take it apart in any case because I wanted to use the technology for Color Theory Classes that I teach.
So one night the mood struck me and a dis-assembling I went! There must have been a million screws. First things off were the back panel and the giant perfect Mirror. Very cool - I am sure that the mirror will come in handy some when making some images!
Next, after taking off every screw on the inside of the screen I attempted to take that off. I almost got it without breaking the frame, but in the end it was too frustrating and I just resorted to the bend and break method. The Screen was a Bonanza! One element is a Fresnel Lens another element is a polarizer, and the third element was a slightly "smoked" piece of crystal clear Plexiglas!!! Now I have approximately 3'x5' panels of modifiers and filters!
I thought that my main objective for the color theory classes would be the colored projectors, but the screen turned out to me so much more useful. I got the projectors out , but I didn't really want to do all of the research required to determine how to power them and mounting them would have also been an issue. So, I took the apart for the filters. Two of the projectors had filters that I could see and the third didn't. While taking the first apart I got all of the way to the lens and there was nothing holding it, so of course I pried it off! While doing that I could feel a vacuum pop and there was a reservoir of OIL inside. Cool but useless - and messy. I got a really good red filter, and an interesting Cyan-Green Filter from the Lenses.
I got the electronics cabinet out and finished gutting the inside until what was left was a giant box on wheels with a lower semi enclosed section and an upper rectangular frame that has no back or front. In the center of the "floor" of the upper section there is a big square opening that allows you to put a flash underneath the object in the lower unit and then by covering the opening with glass you can place the object to be photographed on the floor of the top section. (you may even want to use a big piece of Plexiglas if you know where to find one)
The bottom section is also perfect for holding larger more cumbersome equipment like tripods, light stands, poles, backdrops, cables, etc. Strategically placed holes drilled through the side frame allow cables to run through and the unit becomes "powered" with plenty of outlets for lights, battery chargers and other things that need plugging in.
The top frame is perfect for clamping flashes or modifiers and they can be placed on the left, right and top on either the front or the back! I mounted two 4" x 1" boards that are parallel to the top of the upper frame and extended them out to the depth of the base. Then I drilled a 1" hole on each side for inserting a back drop rod for holding rolls of materials, or flash attachments, or lights, or light modifiers like Fresnel Lenses! Below is an image, and I will try and get more individual images of the different elements to post as well.
Funny thing is that there are many more Ideas that I have for this tool that are even more useful!

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28 Aug 2009 - Updated 26 Jan 2011
Four years goes by in no time! It was that long ago that I saw a hummingbird feeder full of birds at my father's house. I had never really paid any attention at all to these fascinating creatures, but then I thought - "what an interesting subject for photography". Fast forward to the present and WOW was I right, but what I hadn't counted on was how much it taught me, and continues to teach me, about photography! It also taught me patience, lots and lots of patience.
When I started I would sit for hours and hours with camera in hand waiting for birds at the target feeder. Then, when the moment arrived I would try and raise the camera and - ooops, too late, the bird spooked and flew off. OK, so another fifteen or twenty minutes in the ninety degree plus direct sunlight for another opportunity.
This time I kept my D200 with it's 70mm to 300mm Quantaray Macro lens pointed at the feeder with my eye next to the viewfinder - always focusing on the spigot. Another bird and I would attempt to follow him and focus - did I say focus - on a moving hummingbird - I must have been nuts! At any rate I was like an addict! I couldn't put the camera down when there was the possibility that there would be birds at the feeder. If I didn't want to waste hours on end I was better off not to start.
Waiting patiently for another fifteen to twenty for another opportunity. Concentrate - focus on the spigot – the entire time my camera and I are being baked by the sun until I start to doze and then - crap another one just flew away! But I just closed my eyes for a fraction of a second and - another lost opportunity. And so it went that first year, trying to handhold the camera in the bright sun and dozing off frequently missing opportunity after opportunity. And when I did get the shots I was most times disappointed. Even so, there were a few shots that were decent, but I knew that there must be a better way.
Summary of the first year:
· I was convinced that to freeze motion and get the most sharpness I needed to get the highest possible shutter speed in conjunction with the smallest possible aperture.
· I thought that I had to focus on the moving birds.
· I thought that I needed to handhold the camera.
· I thought that I should use my longest telephoto lens – which is the cheapest glass that I own.

| First attempt at a Hummingbird Studio. Idea was to create a massive reflector to illuminate the birds so that higher shutter speeds and smaller apertures could be used. |
Year two and a fresh new start. I wasn't going to be as stupid as I was last year - no not me. This year having learned from my mistakes I mounted the feeder close to the window so that I could sit inside the comfort of the air-conditioned house and snap away. Screens out and the window opened enough for the barrel of the lens to stick through, seems like I am ready! Since I would be inside I wouldn't frighten the birds as much either. I also mounted the camera on a tripod but still attempted to swivel and tilt the camera into position. I was sure that this would work.
Nope, a clear miscalculation. I tried a lot of different experiments that are too embarrassing to explain in detail, but generally they all were attempts at creating a setup that would allow the highest shutter speed possible with the smallest aperture possible. I did get a lot of better shots - and even a few good ones, but the investment in time and effort was not proportional. I got more good pictures by means of sheer time and percentage of total shots. Thousands and thousands of mediocre hummingbird shots.
Summary of the second year:
· I was still convinced that to freeze motion and get the most sharpness I needed to get the highest possible shutter speed in conjunction with the smallest possible aperture.
· I still thought that I had to focus on the moving birds.
· I continued to think that I needed to manually point and focus the camera.
· I struggled to find the best method to take the picture and wasn't able to concentrate on the settings to get the optimum captures
· I thought that I should use my longest telephoto lens – which is the cheapest glass that I own.
Year three enters with my D200 and Camera Control 2 from Nikon. Now I can control the camera remotely! So, I set up the feeder on our back deck and place the tripod and remote flashes strategically around it. I link a bunch of USB cables daisy chained to make it to the downstairs studio where I have my computers and other camera gear. I had my doubts that this would work, and for once I was correct. I had to go purchase a thirty-foot USB cable to run downstairs. Now it works.
Even though I have this elaborate setup, I still need to visually see the birds at the feeder, so I open the downstairs window (the same one the USB cable is going through, and angle a mirror on my desktop so that I can see the birds as I work on the computer! Ain't I brilliant!
Finally the birds show up. I see them in the frame and fire the shutter, again and again for at least twenty or thirty shots. Anxiously I run upstairs and retrieve my CF Card. Surely there are at least a few fantastic shots! Nothing - nada - Zippo! A lot of hummingbird butt as they fled the camera. I could see them react to the capture, but I was sure that they weren't fast enough to elude the 1/500th or higher setting that I had on the camera?
Camera back to the lab and more shooting and testing until I determine that the very firing of the camera is too slow and the birds are reacting to the mirror going up and fly a few inches away until the horrendous noise stops and then it is back to the spigot! Wait a second, hold the phone, it's the flashes! I hadn't been using a flash that often until this year and when the flashes are set to TTL the Pre-Flash is the major culprit.
With the flashes set to TTL the pre-flash was scaring them away, and by the time the actual flash and exposure have occurred they are gone. The noise still factors in, but what can I do about it? Camera Control Pro doesn't allow the Mirror Up Mode. (mirror up is a mode that is used to eliminate vibrations when the camera is on a tripod and even the slightest vibration will cause motion blur)
OK, so now I focus the camera manually on a spot and set the flashes to Manual. Camera back in place and - tense music goes here - IT WORKS! (a little better) OK, noise bad, pre-flash bad, and with the new information I am getting a higher percentage of acceptable shots. So for the rest of the year I get better shots but I haven't even begun to worry about the best exposures and flash settings yet! I am still thinking that the best option is to try and get the fastest shutter speed possible to stop motion.
Summary of the third year:
· I started to realize that the flash was a secret to success. I always knew that flash would stop motion, and that it would allow smaller apertures, but I was concerned that it would permanently spook the birds. I was learning
· I started to focus on where the birds would be instead of trying to focus on a tiny bullet fast object.
· I realized that leaving the camera static on a tripod was the best option for many reasons.
· I had found better methods to capture the subject and began working and fine tuning camera settings
· I started to use my best lens which was only a 60mm Micro Nikkor. I had to get close.

| This was when I attempted to use Camera Control Software and the cable was running to the camera which is out the window and upstairs to the left. The mirror on the desk is so that I could see when a subject approached and I could concentrate on other things at the same time. |
Year four rolls around and I am confident that I can build upon the successes of last year. This year I have my D300 and the possibility to use Live View. I have high hopes for the ability to see the subject remotely through the camera so that I can capture the perfect image.
Back upstairs with the camera and cables and - technical difficulties. The cable doesn't make a great connection and the camera repeatedly falls out of communication with the software. Insert loud and consistent vulgar language and various threats to the equipment and software here. I forge ahead and whenever connection is lost (always as soon as the hummingbirds show up) I have to close and re-open the Camera Control software and sometimes have to unplug and re-plug the USB cable. OK, small price (not really) to pay for the masterpieces to follow!
I find out quickly that Live View has it's own set of issues. You can't leave the camera in Live View too long or the sensor overheats and can degrade the image significantly. Also leaving the camera in Live View eats the batteries in short order. So, when the birds appear you have to initiate Live View, which makes quite a noise when the mirror goes up. Then the camera focuses making additional racket. Here come the birds, open live view - birds fly away, I can see the target, bird returns, fire the shutter etc. OK, this may work. Retrieve CF card and NOTHING - worse than before. So the camera comes down to the laboratory for some experimenting.
OK, so I rethink and I decide that the mirror setup and the Camera Control Software are good, Live View is bad. Camera and flashes back upstairs and cable in place. Birds appear in mirror and click, click, click. Another couple of dozen shots and I am positive that the masterpiece is at hand. Nope. What the %$#&? Crap and double crap!
After a few attempts at different setups and configurations I simply decide to mount the feeder downstairs and go sit out under the deck and wait for my prey the old fashioned way again. So, the camera is on a tripod and focused at the spigot (just a little behind the focal point actually) and the flashes are set to fire in remote triggered by the onboard flash - all manual, and the camera is set to mirror up. (I can do this now because I am not using the software any more) I also have a remote release cable in hand so when my victims, er - subjects arrive I won't have to move at all.
Summary of the fourth year:
· Flashes and Flash Settings are working great. Flash is NECESSARY. Apertures can vary depending on the desired effect as can shutter speeds.
· Focusing on the target is working fantastically. Low percentage of missed shots.
· Tripod is the only way to go, and Flashes are mounted on stands with umbrellas.
Using my best glass and also a Kenko Teleconverter that I previously thought was useless. (it pretty much is with the Quantaray lens but with the Nikons it is excellent and lets me get further away.
· Camera settings are fine tuned and adjusted for desired effects.
Here come the birdies and click, the mirror goes up and the birds retreat six inches and then come back, and then click and flash the bird is captured. Now it is click - retreat, click - capture, repeat from daybreak to sunset.

| So, this is what I finally arrived at! Two Hotshoe Flashes mounted on stands with umbrellas to the right. Another Bare Bulb Flash on the Lower Left, and I always use the on-board flash as a commander and as a support so that the other flashes can be dialed back a bit. Directors chair is behind the umbrellas. |
It is comical and rather enjoyable as well because these little birds are full of personality.
There are brave ones who get used to the routine quickly and it becomes a procedure for them - approach the feeder - hear click - jump back - wait a second - jump forward and begin feeding - blinding light and more noise - jump back - wait a second - feed again - etc.
Then there are the bold ones and like the brave ones they set into a procedure as well but after a few cycles they decide to break routine and inspect the situation. They fall back and survey the overall situation and then they inspect the setup piece by piece. Let's have a look at this light - and the other light over here, and the black box that clicks and flashes, and finally (they aren't stupid at all) they fly right over and stare at the human with the remote release in hand. Sometimes they even shift back and forth and forward in aggressive maneuvers to really intimidate you. OK, now back to feeding!
Then there are the timid ones - approach the feeder and click - gone.
At the beginning I felt like Curly of the Three Stooges cooking Thanksgiving dinner. Stuffing the turkey with unopened cans of ingredients, making chicken soup by pouring the boiling water directly through the uncooked bird, putting everything in the oven and finally a giant explosion! Then it progressed to McDonald's type assembly line and from there to short order cook. Now it is finally feeling like I have been through a culinary program and may actually be ready to be a chef!
Now that I am capturing hummingbird images at will it is time to concentrate on camera and flash settings. After all that is why you are still reading this isn't it?
The above story was from the seaason before last. There are even more updates and new images that I have to publish. I will try and do that within the next week or so!
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Click on the Image below to go to the Hummingbird Gallery in koehlercolor.com:
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